iPhone 14 Pro Max Taptic Engine Replacement

• Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.
• Remove the two 6.8 mm-long pentalobe P2 screws at the bottom edge of the iPhone.

• If inserted too far, an opening pick can damage your device. Follow this step to mark your pick and prevent damage.
  Measure 3 mm from the tip and mark the opening pick with a permanent marker.
• You can also mark the other corners of the pick with different measurements.
• Alternatively, tape a coin to a pick 3 mm from the tip.

• If your iPhone has a cracked screen, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping over the glass.
  Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPhone's screen until the whole face is covered.
• Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes from any glass shaken free during the repair.
• If you can't get the suction cup to stick in the next few steps, fold a strong piece of tape (such as duct tape) into a handle and lift the screen with that instead.
• If all else fails, you can superglue the suction cup to the screen.

The next three steps demonstrate the Anti-Clamp, a tool we designed to make the opening procedure easier. If you aren't using the Anti-Clamp, skip down three steps for an alternate method.
For complete instructions on how to use the Anti-Clamp, check out this guide.

• Pull the blue handle backwards to unlock the Anti-Clamp's arms.
• Slide the arms over either the left or right edge of your iPhone.
• Position the suction cups near the bottom edge of the iPhone-one on the front, and one on the back.
• Squeeze the cups together to apply suction to the desired area.
• If you find that the surface of your iPhone is too slippery for the Anti-Clamp to hold onto, you can use tape to create a grippier surface.

• Pull the blue handle forwards to lock the arms.
• Turn the handle clockwise 360 degrees or until the cups start to stretch.
• Make sure the suction cups remain aligned with each other. If they begin to slip out of alignment, loosen the suction cups slightly and realign the arms.

• Support your iPhone on something sturdy such as a hardcover book so it rests hands-free and parallel to the ground; this makes it easier to work with in the following steps.
• Use a hair dryer to heat along the bottom edge of the iPhone. The screen should feel slightly too hot to touch.
• For complete instructions on how to use a hair dryer, check out this guide.
• Wait one minute to give the adhesive a chance to release and present an opening gap.
• Insert an opening pick under the screen's plastic bezel when the Anti-Clamp creates a large enough gap.
• If the Anti-Clamp doesn't create a sufficient gap, apply more heat to the area and rotate the handle a quarter turn.
• Don't crank more than a quarter turn at a time, and wait one minute between turns. Let the Anti-Clamp and time do the work for you.
• Skip the next two steps.

• If you're using a suction handle, follow the next two steps to loosen the screen.
• Use a hair dryer or a heat gun to heat the bottom edge of the iPhone until the screen is slightly too hot to touch.
• Never leave your heat gun in one spot for an extended period of time.

• Apply a suction handle to the bottom edge of the screen, while avoiding the very edge of the glass.
• Pull up on the suction cup with firm, constant pressure to create a slight gap between the screen and the frame.
• Insert an opening pick into the gap under the screen's plastic bezel.
• The adhesive holding the screen in place is very strong; creating this initial gap takes a significant amount of force. If you're having a hard time opening a gap, apply more heat, and gently rock the screen up and down to weaken the adhesive until you create enough of a gap to insert your opening pick.

Heat the right edge of the iPhone (the edge with the power button) until the screen is slightly too hot to touch.

• Slide the opening pick around the bottom right corner of the iPhone to separate its adhesive.
• Continue sliding up the right edge of the iPhone until you reach the top right corner.
• Don't insert your pick more than 3 mm, as you may damage internal components.
• Leave the pick in the top right corner before continuing.

Heat the top edge of the iPhone until the screen is slightly too hot to touch.

Insert your pick underneath the top right edge of the phone. Slide it around the top-right corner and halfway across the top edge, stopping right before the earpiece speaker cut-out.
Do not insert your pick more than 3 mm to avoid damaging the top sensors.

• There are delicate cables along the left edge of your iPhone. Do not insert your pick deeper than 2 mm here, as you may damage the cables.
• Rotate your pick around the top left corner of the screen.
• Slide your pick to the bottom left corner of the screen to separate the adhesive.
• If you're having trouble separating the adhesive, reheat the left edge.

• Rotate your iPhone so the right edge faces you.
• Open your iPhone by swinging the screen up from the right side, like the front cover of a book.
• Lean the screen against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone.
• If you don't have anything at hand to lean the screen against, your suction handle can do the trick.

During reassembly, lay the screen in position, align the clips along the top edge, and carefully press the top edge into place before snapping the rest of the screen down. If it doesn't click easily into place, check the condition of the clips around the perimeter of the screen and make sure they aren't bent.

• Use a Y000 screwdriver to remove eight screws securing the battery connector cover:
  • Five 1.3 mm-long screws
  • Two 1.6 mm-long screws
  • One 1.9 mm-long screw

Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from to avoid damaging your iPhone.

During reassembly, this is a good point to power on your iPhone and test all functions before you seal the screen in place. Be sure to power your iPhone back down completely before you continue working.

• Grasp the connector cover with a pair of tweezers and slide it downwards to clear the flex cables.
• Remove the connector cover.

• Use the pointed end of a spudger to disconnect the battery cable by prying the connector straight up from its socket.
• Try not to damage the black silicone seal surrounding this and other board connections. These seals provide extra protection against water and dust intrusion.
• Bend the connector slightly away from the logic board to prevent it from accidentally making contact with the socket and providing power to the phone during your repair.

• Use the pointed end of a spudger to disconnect the first display cable by prying the connector straight up from its socket.
• To re-attach press connectors like this one, carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend, causing permanent damage.

• Use the pointed end of a spudger to disconnect the second display cable by prying the connector straight up from its socket.

• Remove the screen.
• Apply new adhesive where necessary after cleaning relevant areas with isopropyl alcohol (>90%).
• During reassembly, pause here if you wish to replace the screen adhesives.

• Use a Phillips driver to remove four 1.5 mm-long screws securing the loudspeaker:
  
  • Three smaller-headed screws
  • One larger-headed screw

• Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up and loosen the loudspeaker from the bottom right corner of the phone.

• Use a pair of tweezers to grab the loudspeaker.
• Tilt the loudspeaker to separate it from the adhesive-backed strip that leads to the Taptic Engine.
• Remove the loudspeaker.
• When reinstalling the loudspeaker, place it in its recess battery-side first to align it with the adhesive-backed strip.

Use a spudger to disconnect the Taptic Engine by prying the connector straight up from its socket.

1. Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove two screws securing the Taptic Engine:
   • One 1.8 mm-long screw
   • One 2.3 mm-long screw
2. Use a standoff screwdriver to remove the 2.9 mm-long standoff screw securing the Taptic Engine.
   Standoff screws are best removed using a dedicated standoff driver or driver bit. In a pinch, a small flathead screwdriver will do the job-but use extra caution to ensure it doesn't slip and damage surrounding components.

1. Use a pair of tweezers or your fingers to remove the Taptic Engine.

1. If your replacement part didn't come with the plastic strip along the top of the Taptic Engine, you'll need to transfer it to your replacement part.
   Use your fingers or a pair of tweezers to gently peel the adhesive-backed strip off of the Taptic Engine.